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Read
the second e-postcard: Postcard#2 WEDNESDAY
AFTERNOON | Sept. 20, 2006 Lucca, Italy Hello! Finally,
a bit of a break to write a few notes...Everyone arrived last Saturday in high
spirits, though, admittedly, a little weary. Within an hour or two everyone was
happily settled in our beautiful home for the week, Villa Borgo Bernadini. We
began our journey with a fine dinner together, a dinner that proved to be the
first in a long string of extraordinary meals. Of course we've all had pasta,
and veal and lamb before. But, somehow, the flavors here are so intense, so colorful
that it's as if we were discovering Italian cuisine for the first time.
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| The Villa Borgo Bernardini | On Sunday, with a
few heavy clouds in the sky, we drove to Cararra, where, for centuries the world
has come to excavate exquisite white and gray marble. For example, Michelangelo
came to Cararra to select his white block of stone to create his statue of David.
After inspecting the quarries and learning how the giant blocks are excavated,
we drove to the Tuscan seaside resort of Viareggio. It's an impressive seaside
holiday town with 5-star hotels, great shops and smart beach clubs with inviting
cabanas and colorful umbrellas on the tidy sands. After a wonderful buffet of
Italian specialties at our villa, our pretty guide for the week, Antonella, brought
us into the nearby walled city of Lucca, one of our favorite cities anywhere in
Italy. Monday was our day to visit two of Tuscany's famed
"hillside villages", little walled towns perched on the tops of Tuscany's rolling
hills that remain little changed since the Middle Ages. Even today the residents
more or less go about their daily tasks much as they might have centuries ago.
Our first stop was Volterra, a charming village originally founded some 600 years
BC by the Etruscans. It's long been one of our favorites and remains a little
out of the way of the circuit of mass tour groups. In addition to the remains
of a stunning Roman theater and complex of baths, Volterra is also known for its
wonderful crafts created from its alabaster.
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| Bill, Jean, Amber and Mike Olson | The
Bullocks and the Eplers | After a superb
lunch in an old mill - perhaps a bit too superb for our waistlines - we spent
the afternoon in San Gimignano, perhaps the most famous of all the hillside villages.
Yesterday we drove into Florence for a day of shopping,
sightseeing (fine dining, of course) and a visit to David at the Academia. This
morning we slept in just a little then drove to nearby Pistoia to explore the
weekly market. With the help of Valentino, one of our chefs, we tasted olive oil
and pecorino cheese at Sauro's (the "olive oil king" and friend of TV's "Molto
Maria") and watched the locals socialize and select the best of the produce. (Though
this was a true, untouristy Italian town, it was somewhat disconcerting to see
that the piazza in front of the cathedral was under construction for this evening's
concert by the Seattle rock group, Pearl Jam.) Tonight
we'll visit another private villa for cocktails, then dine at a restaurant considered
by many to be the region's best. Tomorrow we head for Siena, but that's another
story we'll save for the next postcard. Meanwhile, we're
well and enjoying the good life in Italy. Wish you were here! 
Paul and Christine Niskanen
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| San Gimignano |
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| Caprese salad |  |
| Italian Pottery | |