Read our first two e-postcards:
Postcard#1     Postcard#2

MONDAY | January 22, 2007
Portland, Oregon

Hi!

Even though we've just returned from India, we would be remiss if we didn't send you one more postcard to document our visit to the holiest of all Indian cities, Varanasi. (Many historians consider Varanasi to be the oldest continually occupied city on earth, dating back some 5,000 years.)

In the Sixth Century (B.C.) Lord Buddha gained enlightenment in an Indian city located close to the Himalayas. He then traveled to a site near Varanasi to preach his first sermon.

Hindus come to Varanasi to bathe in the Ganges to wash away their sins. They also come to die here in the belief that if their body is cremated on the shores of the Ganges, they break the cycle of reincarnation, freeing their spirit to move on to Nirvana.

During our first afternoon in Varanasi, we visited nearby Sarnath, where Buddha preached his sermon. Returning to Varanasi, we boarded rickshaws to bump our way through the crowded narrow streets (there are 3.5 million inhabitants in this small city) to the edge of the Ganges. After descending steep stairs to the river's edge, we boarded small rowboats to watch the traditional Hindu evening ceremonies that take place along the river's edge.

Shortly after darkness fell, bells began to clang as a number of priests stood on raised platforms and, in synch with each other, blessed "Mother Ganges", first with incense, then with fire. The shores were lined with pilgrims and on-lookers.

Evening Hindu Rituals on the Ganges

Later our boatmen rowed us downriver to see the burning funeral pyres. The male relatives of the deceased stood nearby as the body was turned to ash and returned to Mother Ganges.

Funeral pyres light the night	Fran, Louisa and Bob light prayer bouquets

Before sunrise the following morning, we returned to the river again, this time to watch the faithful come to bathe in the light of early dawn. Upriver we could see the fire and smoke from the funeral pyres, in front of us colorfully dressed women bathed in the cold waters. Downriver men ventured into the waters wearing almost nothing. A little further downriver men washed clothing in the Ganges and laid it along the shore to dry. The experience left us virtually speechless. We hope our photos give you some impression of the sights and rituals we experienced.

Ganges bathing at dawn		Male relatives witness a morning funeral

It's been a remarkable journey to a culture so different from our own. It will probably take us some time to absorb everything we've seen. For the moment, however, we're pleased we came and wish you had been with us.