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Postcard#1

SATURDAY MORNING | April 7, 2007
Cruising the South China Sea towards Dalian, China aboard the Crystal Symphony

Since we wrote last week, we've enjoyed an intriguing mix of cultures. Last Tuesday the Crystal Symphony made its maiden call on Kagoshima, Japan. Located on Japan's southern Kyushu islands, relatively few Western visitors find their way to this remote city. As a result, we found the locals curious about us -- a local television station even followed us during the morning to film our reaction to the city. After a stop at one of Japan's serene gardens, we visited the huge food hall of Kagoshima's largest department store to see incredible variety of seafood, vegetables and herbs, many completely new to us. We were also surprised that few stores took credit cards. Furthermore, this is the only major city we've ever visited without any ATMs.

Kagoshima TV interviews Christine Niskanen

During the afternoon, we drove to Chiran, a lovely town known for its historic samurai homes. It was also a training base for Japan's Kamikaze pilots during World War II. After a bountiful luncheon (some of the dishes were a little challenging) we walked under spring cherry blossoms along the lane of historic samurai homes and gardens. We feel close to Japan, enjoy good relations and even a direct flight from Portland; nevertheless, we realized during our visit that we understand very little about this complicated culture.

After a relaxing day at sea, on Friday we sailed into Shanghai, China's amazing showplace. Except for those who've been to China before, Shanghai astounds everyone. Though there a few parts of the city that still remind one of China's feudal past, this must be the most modern city in the world. In just 20 years or so, since China adopted a market-based economy, this city has built scores of attractive skyscrapers, 5 major subway lines (two more under construction), a 40-mile long monorail, a magnetic-levitation train to the city's newest airport (it covers the 21-mile run in 7 minutes) - that's just the beginning. Though we visited Shanghai's famous museum - perhaps China's best - the most amazing sight was the Museum of Urban Planning. (A few of our guests groaned when we saw this on our itinerary ... at least until we saw it.) On the third floor we looked over a massive model of how the city will look in 2020. The vast model depicts each individual present and future building on each block of this city of 18 million inhabitants. After our brief glimpse of Shanghai, we have little doubt that most of these amazing plans will be realized.

Shanghai by 2020

The finale began when a motorcyclist roared inside a 30-40 foot steel cage in the shape of a globe and began making loops and circle inside, each time faster than the last. Then a second cyclist joined in, making sideways loops while the first made vertical loops inside the circle. We held our breath, for a collision in these tight spaces would be tragic. To our surprise, a third cyclist joined, followed by a fourth and a fifth. Absolutely incredible. They were racing too fast for the eye to follow all the action. By the time the show concluded, eight cyclists were roaring around this small cage. It was almost painful to watch because an accident would mean tragic injury. But you couldn't take your eyes away. When it came time for the performers to take their bows, two of the cyclists were attractive young women. Unforgettable.

Rowing Zhujiajaio's Canals

Yesterday we drove into the countryside to a 'water village' located near China's Grand Canal that once connected the south of China with Beijing, 800 miles to the north. Though rapidly becoming touristy (more Chinese than Western visitors), Zhujiajiao gave us a glimpse of Shanghai's rich agricultural countryside and China's thousand year-old transportation networks.

After superb dining - our dining has been sublime in China - we spent time (and more than a few dollars) shopping, then indulged in one of China's popular activities, foot massage. Seven of us were accommodated in a mid-city salon for an hour of foot (and back, neck and head) massage. Quite a treat for $18 per person!

Now we're underway to the final port call of our cruise, Dalian. We're there tomorrow, Easter Sunday, then conclude our cruise outside Beijing on Monday.

We're all healthy, in good spirits and enjoying a fascinating journey - wish you were here!

Paul and Christine Niskanen

Foot massage - Chinese style

Shanghai by night, as seen from the Crystal Symphony