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SUNDAY EVENING | May 20, 2007
Cruising the Tyrhennian and Ligurian Seas en route to Monte Carlo
Aboard Holland America's Rotterdam

Hi!

The morning was a big event; first communion in Civitavecchia, Rome's historic port city. We watched young boys and girls, dressed in white robes (wearing jeans and tennis shoes underneath), pose awkwardly for pictures with beaming parents. When we stopped for lunch in a neighborhood restaurant, one long table was set for a celebrating family. The guest of honor, a pretty little girl about 9 or 10 years old, proudly took her place at the head of the table. Soon wonderful dishes of fish, shrimps and fragrant pastas went rushing by. Animated conversation filled the room.

But, we've gotten ahead of ourselves.

After we departed Santorini on Wednesday, we enjoyed a relaxing day at sea, a good opportunity to gather for evening cocktails. After our flights and a busy beginning, we enjoyed the break.

Dennis and Jackie Guenther	Christine and Richard Corson

When we awakened on Friday in Messina, our beautiful weather gave way to pouring rains, black clouds, lightning and thunder. Those heading out on shore excursions wondered how their day would go. But, this is Sicily, and by 10 am the clouds blew away. Though the cathedral, founded by the Normans nearly 1,000 years ago, is a treasure, the city remains largely untouched by prosperity.

Southern Italy's huge lemons (think lemoncello)	Naples' Harbor

Yesterday we sailed into the golden Bay of Naples where we had planned one of our Signature Journey shore excursions. Under beautiful sunny skies, we boarded a 'jet cat' ferry to speed across the bay to Sorrento, an elegant resort dating back to Roman times. Instead of morning sightseeing, we explored the narrow streets. Vendors sold fresh produce, silk ties and scarves and colorful pottery. We stopped in one place for a sample of the region's iconic liqueur, lemoncello.

Sorrento's former royal palaces	A street mime prepares for work

We returned to Naples for lunch, driving along the twisting roads high above the bay. We stopped at a 100-year old restaurant for traditional Neapolitan pizza; after all, the thousands of immigrants from Naples brought pizza with them when they came to North America. We began with grilled vegetables, red wine, garlicky cream cheese and ripe tomatoes. Then came the fragrant pies: Pizza capriosa, pizza margarita, pizza capriccio and still more. All in all it was a beautiful day in sensuous southern Italy.

Our Pizza Chef	Darrell and Kae Bains (left) Larry Soderholm and Lois Peterson

This morning we sailed into Civitavecchia, the old port for Rome. Though overshadowed now by ugly grain elevators, we passed by the handsome fortifications designed by Michelangelo. While many made the trek into Rome - on another beautiful day - others stayed in Civitavecchia to explore the neighborhoods and taste the seaside city's fresh seafood. Tomorrow we sail into one of the world's great centers of wealth, Monte Carlo. Then it's on to Marseilles for a visit to Provence. We'll tell you more in a few days. Meanwhile we're all healthy, having a good time and wish you were here.

Paul and Christine Niskanen