ANGIE AGUILAR Senior Travel Advisor Destination Specialist for Africa Destination Specialist for Mexico Direct Line: 503.863.5409 angie@finevoyages.com

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Cape Town | Johannesburg | On Safari

Part 1 Cape Town

My journey began in South Africa's "Mother City", Cape Town. Even before my plane landed, I could see the amazing beauty of the city. Cape Town incorporates an eclectic mix of cultural and architectural influences including Indonesian, French, Dutch, British, German, and of course, influences from the local Bushman, Hottentot and Bantu tribes; the mix of Africa, Asia and Europe is exciting. This region also boasts impressive scenic wonders, from massive Table Mountain that frames the city, to white-sand beaches, lovely "Cape Dutch" winelands and magnificent coastal landscapes. This city is stunning and fun!

My first accommodations could not have been more comfortable or in a more ideal location. The luxurious Cape Grace is ideally situated on the Victoria & Alford Waterfront in the heart of Cape Town's working harbor. No matter which room you occupy, you will always have a gorgeous view of either the magnificent harbor or the impressive mountains. The luxurious amenities in each room (including fresh flowers, aromatic bath products, delicious snacks, and comfortable robes and slippers) as well as the hotel's impeccable service and warm hospitality, will ensure you will quickly feel at home. Just steps away you'll find exciting shopping and entertainment venues as well as dozens of restaurants and cafes. There's a feeling of excitement and fun in the air. You even have convenient access to the Robben Island Ferry system, located a quick 5-minute walk from the doorstep of the Cape Grace. After my trans-Atlantic flight, I spent my first evening relaxing and adjusting to the new time zone (It's the same as Paris or Rome).

With only three days in Cape Town, my intention was to see and do as much as possible. Our partner in Southern Africa, &BEYOND, was the host for my entire journey. We work closely with this outstanding company because of their dedication to conserving Africa's lands and wildlife, to empowering the local communities and for their work creating sustainable ecotourism. It was a privilege to be their guest.

The next morning, my private guide, Simpiwe drove me along the stunning coastal highway, sandwiched between the Atlantic and a ridge of towering mountains known as the Twelve Apostles. The portion of the route known as "Chapman's Peak Drive" is one of the most beautiful stretches of coastal highway anywhere. Our destination was Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. We stopped first in Boulders Beach to view a thriving colony of comical jackass penguins. Some perched lazily in the sun, others waddled down to the sea to go fishing. We concluded our day in tranquil Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, renowned for it's preservation of the indigenous plants of Southern Africa. My favorite part was the "fragrance garden", filled with aromatic plants that visitors can touch, feel and smell.

My second day began with a quick 25-minute ferry ride to Robben Island, site of the notorious prison where Nelson Mandela spent much of his 27 years of incarceration. Robben Island has a 400-year history as a place of banishment, isolation and imprisonment. It became a "dumping ground" for what the apartheid regime regarded as political troublemakers, social outcasts and the unwanted of society. No longer a prison, today it stands as a memorial to the long struggle for liberation and the creation of today's exciting multi-racial South Africa. Robben Island's former political prisoners guide you through this fascinating but chilling place.

I spent the afternoon in Langa (meaning "Sun"), one of Cape Town's "townships". Langa was first created in the 1920's when a Spanish flu epidemic hit the city and black South Africans were "identified" as a health hazard. My visit was an eye-opening experience that I won't soon forget. The people amazed me. Though they have few possessions, they took pride in their accomplishments and welcomed me warmly. I treasure the beautiful arts and crafts that I purchased there including, hand-carved ebony figurines, patina cloth-work, colorful beaded jewelry and paintings of spectacular sunsets.

Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa

At the end of the day, I said farewell to the Cape Grace and checked into my new accommodations at the lovely Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa. Located a leisurely 15-minute drive from Cape Town's waterfront, this hotel is situated beneath the towering Twelve Apostles mountain range on a ridge that provides incredible views over the sea. The minute I arrived I was overwhelmed with their exceptional service and hospitality. Although this hotel is located somewhat away from the hustle and bustle of the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, you will not be without activities. The hotel offers two restaurants, a bar with live entertainment, a 16-seater cinema, two swimming pools, a fitness center and a luxurious spa (you must try the "Sanctuary Signature Escape" - fabulous!) If that's not enough to keep you busy, there is always nearby beachfront with its quaint cafes and restaurants - an ideal place to enjoy a sundowner (evening cocktail).

For my final day in Cape Town, we headed out to visit the "Cape Dutch" winelands, less than an hour's drive from Cape Town. Even if wine is not your passion, don't miss the drive through vineyard-covered hills and the beautiful Cape Dutch architecture. Paul and Christine, owners of Cruise Masters, count this region as one their favorites anywhere in the world. We stopped first at Anura Vineyard. Now I'm no expert in wine but I really enjoyed the visit. Not only was I able to learn more about the winemaking process, but I was invited to sample some of the best wine I have ever tasted. And don't forget the cheese - oh yes, they make great cheeses here -the chive and onion was my favorite.

Next we visited a beautiful little village founded by French Huguenots, Fransschoek, known for some of Africa's best restaurants. (I loved Rueben's, but I hear the restaurants in Le Quartier Francais are rated as some of the best on the continent). After lunch we drove to the charming university town of Stellenboesch, the oldest community in South Africa. When you visit, be sure to plan sufficient time to visit the interesting boutiques, cafes and wine bistros. In addition, the extraordinary African crafts, clothing, jewelry, fabrics and furniture may make you want to redecorate.

Our final stop today, and the highlight for me, was a visit to Speir Estate, a historic, award-winning 2,471-acre wine estate. It offers a hotel, conference venues, restored Cape Dutch buildings, and contemporary art collections. But the most fascinating part was their Cheetah Outreach Program, dedicated to the survival of the free-ranging cheetah. I had the rare opportunity to spend 10 minutes viewing and petting X-Ray, one of only 18 remaining King Cheetahs in the world.

This afternoon I bid farewell to my trusted guide, Simpiwe and spent my last evening sipping a sundowner on my balcony watching the bright gold and purple colors of the Cape Town sunset.

Part 2 Johannesburg

Johannesburg is the ideal jumping off point for South Africa safaris. This industrial city (twice the size of Cape Town at close to 9 million people) offers a variety of museums dedicated to the evolution of man and the cradle of humankind. There is also quite a gold history. From the air you'll see massive hills created from the tailings of the local gold mines, which are now closed. On the ground, you'll notice the earth has a soft gold hue.

If you have time in Johannesburg, I would recommend a visit to one of the museums or a visit to the nearby elephant sanctuary and cheetah research facility. Another option is a visit to Soweto Township, the cradle of South Africa's drive for independence. You can see the street where two Nobel Prize winners, (Nelson Mandela and Bishop Tutu) lived. The modern Sandton mall offers great shopping and dining opportunities.

While in Johannesburg I stayed at the prestigious Westcliff Hotel. Located on a hillside in the exclusive northern suburbs of Johannesburg, the Westcliff offers lovely cascading gardens and panoramic views. I highly recommend dining in their La Belle Terrasse and Loggia Restaurant. The food is fantastic; my favorite dish was the Squid Risotto and, for dessert, cheese drizzled with honey. Delicious!

Part 3 Safari

Bright and early this morning I returned to Johannesburg's OR Tambo International Airport for my charter flight to my first safari camp. I left my city luggage behind in a secured storage facility and traveled from this point with a soft safari bag. Soon my Federal Air flight reached altitude for my 2-1/2 hour flight to Ngala Safari Lodge.

At the briefing upon arrival, I soon learned that procedures at all safari lodges are similar: No wandering around the camp after dark on your own unless accompanied by a guide, don't stand up in your open-air vehicle, don't clap or yell to get the animal's attention, and under no circumstances attempt to feed or touch the animals. No problem, I thought to myself.

Ngala Safari Lodge is situated within the western boundary of South Africa's legendary Kruger National Park. Ngala, meaning "Lion", offers a great diversity of large game animals. Most of the wildlife is 'habituated' to humans, therefore their relaxed demeanor allows for unsurpassed viewing.

Each individual 'chalet' accommodation at Ngala is well outfitted with comfortable beds, fine linens, private bath and shower, even heating and air conditioning. All the public rooms of the camp are open-air. Expect rich woods, thatched roofs and comfortable sofas and pillows everywhere for guests to relax in. Books and photos on the area are all about. This really feels like a home away from home.

• Highlight in Ngala: The 17-year-old mother cheetah with her 6-month old cub showed no interest in us whatsoever. She hardly noticed when our vehicle approached. The cub was curious about us though and made a point to creep over to us ever so slowly for a quick smell before bouncing quickly back to the comfort and protection of his mother. They lounged together under a Mopane tree, one that cradled their latest kill in a high branch. Mother had gotten her fill of the food, but the young cub was hungry for more. Tired of waiting for his mother to feed him we watched in awe at (possibly) his first attempt at climbing. He was awkward and clumsy but he managed to get one good bite in before heading back to his mother.

Second Lodge:

• Kirkman's Kamp, just a 20-minute flight away, is situated in the fabled Sabi Sand Game Reserve, considered by most to be Africa's premier "Big 5" reserve. Kirkman's sits on over 15,000 acres of land rich with wildlife including elephant, lion, leopard, cheetah, buffalo and white rhino.
  
  
• Quite different in appearance from Ngala, Kirkman's was built in the 1920's in the tradition of an early South African homestead. Its colonial style will bring you back to another era.
  
  
• Highlight in Kirkmans: Watching two lionesses feed themselves into a food coma on a fresh kudu kill. I should have been disgusted but I found myself not able to look away - it's the circle of life in its rawest form.

Third Lodge:

• Exeter River Lodge: Possibly my favorite lodge, Exeter is also situated in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, a leisurely 50-minute drive from Kirkman's Kamp. With almost 25,000 acres of prime wildlife land to traverse, the wildlife viewing is exceptional. And what a gorgeous lodge! It's situated on the edge of the Sand River surrounded by a grove of ebony trees. All the rooms and the main lodge face the River for extraordinary photographic opportunities.

• Highlight of Exeter: It seemed as if we were stalking the leopard as she herself was stalking her on own prey. We followed her for quite some time only losing sight of her when she began her sprint towards her morning kill, a small grey duiker. It all happened so fast that really all you could see was a puff of dirt and hear the last cry of the duiker as the leopard grabbed hold of it's neck before snapping it like a twig. The process consumed so much of the leopard's energy that she couldn't enjoy her meal right away, but instead hid the kill in a bush and lay down nearby to rest and regain her energy. She ate heartily soon enough.

Last Lodge:

• Phinda Vlei Lodge: My last lodge was a 2-1/2 hour flight (on the smallest plane I've ever been on - only 4 seats) from Exeter River, deep in the wetland (vlei) of Maputaland. This reserve boasts an eclectic mix of terrain in it's near 45,000 acres, including a unique sand forest. At Phinda you'll likely see one of Africa's rarest species, the black rhino, which (thanks in part to CC Africa) was recently removed from the endangered species list.
  
  
  
  

• Highlight of Phinda Vlei: We spent a good hour watching the lazy black rhino nap, only rising when another vehicle approached. I was told that most of the elusive black rhino are skittish and hard to view for long periods of time. I feel very fortunate to have had such a long visit with this strange-looking creature. I must have taken a hundred pictures of him.

Wow! This is Africa. These animals are real and no, I'm not sitting in front of my TV watching the Discovery Channel. And so it is, a wonderful daily routine in each game camp: Awaken early, a few sips of tea and maybe a biscotti, view animals on your morning game drive for 3 - 4 hours (stopping half way through for a cup of hot chocolate or coffee mixed with Africa's unique Amarula Liquor) and then return to the lodge for a welcomed nap or maybe a morning nature walk. Lunches are delicious, fresh and healthy. Then it's time for another nap or to enjoy leisure time around the lodge. At 3 it's time for afternoon tea and cookies followed by the evening game drive for about 3 hours (stopping half way through to enjoy a sundowner - my favorite is the Bell's Old Scotch Whiskey on ice), then back to the lodge for dinner in the boma (thatched enclosure with a fire pit in the center), and early to bed for tomorrow's another day and we'll begin all over again.

I've been asked what my favorite part of Africa is. My answer is always the same: Everything. Each day was something new and exciting: Warm, hospitable people, wonderfully comfortable accommodations, sublime wildlife, and the grand beauty of nature. Never experienced before, my Africa adventure was truly a life-changing, awe-inspiring journey. I'm ready for more!

I look forward to arranging an equally enriching experience for you. Why wait? After all, Africa won't be this way for long.

Note: Cruise Masters will offer its annual African Safari beginning in Johannesburg on July 3, 2009. You'll see three of the camps mentioned above, Ngala, Kirkman's and Phinda Mountain Lodge. At the beginning there's an option to visit Victoria Falls. At the conclusion of the safari, we offer an excellent option to beautiful Cape Town. Call me for details.