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FRIDAY | November 9, 2007
Crossing the Atlantic en route to Florida aboard Regent's Seven Seas Navigator

Hello:

We've enjoyed some lovely days since we wrote more than a week ago.

After our 'special' day in Tuscany at the beginning of our journey, our next Signature Journey excursion took place in Tunisia. Unfortunately our arrival in this North African port was delayed about an hour so our overview of the ancient city of Carthage was brief. Soon we found ourselves entering the modern North African city of Tunis. From the central plaza, we walked into the medina (or old part of the city), with its maze of shops lining narrow covered streets, (similar to Istanbul's Grand Bazaar). Though many of the shops seemed to sell the same rather tired goods to visitors, certain streets were lined with goldsmiths selling jewelry, principally to prospective brides. Another section revealed several shops selling elaborate baskets to carry wedding gifts.

Andalusian window and classic North African building near Tunis

For lunch we drove into a somewhat rundown neighborhood and walked up an unimpressive street. We stopped at one large doorway and rang the bell. Soon a much smaller door, almost a hatch within the larger door, was opened and we entered a private 200-year old home that a Tunisian family had restored to its classic Arabic-Andalusian elegance. The family's mother prepared our lunch, which was served by her husband and their three sons. The North African cuisine - small appetizers followed by lamb and couscous - was very good but the real treat was seeing the private home and enjoying the warm hospitality of the family. (Arabian hospitality is legendary but few travelers find themselves in a place to enjoy it.)

Tunisian family and interior courtyard of their home

After our first day at sea, we stopped next in Palma de Mallorca, the capital city of the beautiful Balearic island of Mallorca. A few of us shopped in the city's elegant design stores, others went to Valldemosa, the mountainside village where Chopin spent several winters working on his compositions. Ethel Birnbach and Nadine Allen took an excursion to see the amazing 'dragon caves".

The cathedral of Palma de Mallorca, Cartagena harbor

Remaining in Spain for our next visit, we stopped to visit Cartagena (meaning Carthage), a handsome port city working hard to make itself attractive to visitors. Currently they are restoring a magnificent Roman theater as well as the adjacent old cathedral that had been built centuries ago using some of the building blocks from the theater.

When we reached Malaga last Sunday, we embarked upon another Signature Journey excursion, this time to the fabled Spanish city of Granada, lying in the foothills of the Sierra Madre range. Our principal destination was the Alhambra, Spain's most magnificent Moorish palace, the Alhambra. It was one of those crystal clear autumn days with deep blue skies and brilliant sunshine. Even though the highpoint of the palace, the Court of the Lions, was under renovation, we could still see the sublime beauty of the complex. After our visit, we walked several blocks downhill to a typical local restaurant known for preparing Granada's unique cuisine. The friendly staff kept bringing us more dishes (and more wine) until we almost begged them to stop. To complement our lunch, a noted classical trio played music from the time of the Moors.

Exterior of Alhambra, interior of Renaissance palace built after the Moors

Interior courtyard in the Alhambra, Helga Handel and Dick Corson

When our ship reached Casablanca on Monday, some of us took an excursion to Morocco's capital, Rabat, while others explored Casablanca and its magnificent new mosque. Everyone enjoyed their visit but there was an air of disappointment since none of the buildings looked anything like those we saw in the film, Casablanca. Where was Ingrid Bergman?

Minaret at the unfinished mosque in Rabat, exterior view of Rabat's Casbah

Late on Tuesday afternoon our ship sailed into its final European city, Funchal, the capital of the island of Madeira (Portugal). The ship invited all of its repeat visitors to a gala reception in a lush garden setting high above the harbor.

The next morning, under beautiful skies, we took our final Signature Journey excursion to visit the island. We really enjoyed driving through the countryside to see how, over several centuries, farmers had terraced the steep slopes to grow their crops of grapes, bananas, vegetables and cereals. Returning to Funchal, we boarded a sleek funicular that quickly brought us up nearly 1500 feet from the sea to the lush gardens high above the city. To descend, we boarded Funchal's unique dry land 'toboggans', guided by two young men wearing bowler hats. It's an amazing ride as you descend through the steep streets only somewhat in control.

Terraced Madeiran countryside, Whit and Fran Smith begin their toboggan ride down Funchal's steep streets, Bob Fitzgerald models Madeiran folk hat with Nel Fingerson

We are now on the second day of our eight-day crossing of the Atlantic. Yesterday was a little bouncy and windy due to a nearby region of low pressure. With our location deep in the Atlantic, it was a little discomforting to walk near the pool and see a lady reading a book, Travel Disasters. However the heavens are sunny this morning, and the ship is riding well.

We're having a great time and wish you were here!

Paul and Christine Niskanen